6:30 AM, temperature slightly above 3 degrees Celsius – a usual January morning deep deep inside the core of Corbett National Park…our gypsy was running through the dense giant trees all around us. Packed with woolens, jackets, gloves we were shivering with both cold and excitement. The leaves were still drenched with dew. The sun was yet to be seen anywhere, most parts of the forest were dark and shady while the banks of Ramganga river filled with the mystic lights of the dawn piercing through the heavy fog creating an unworldly concoction of dream, reality and anticipation.
We reached Dhikala Forest Rest House last evening, which is around 30 Km from Dhangadi Gate of Jim Corbett National Park. This time the mission was, inter alia, ofcourse, to meet the Queen of Corbett – the famous tigress of Corbett National Park. She has always been the favorite for wildlife photographers as well as tourists. Anyone familiar with the tiger behavior in Indian forests knows that it is always a difficult task to spot and photoshoot a Corbett tiger compared to a few other popular parks like Ranthambore, Tadoba National Parks, Bandhavgarh etc. This is primarily due to the nature of the habitat and pedigree of the Panthera tigris tigris of this part of the world. The climatic condition of sub-Himalayan cold weather and adequate amount of water and food contribute to the charismatic and intriguing look of the Corbett Tiger.
We waited for a few minutes at the ‘high bank’ by the river Ganga. Sometimes, the queen comes here in search of a breakfast menu. As the engine of the gypsy stopped the eerie silence gripped our shivering souls. As if the first bird of the forest was yet to wake up from her cozy nest in the winter morning. The rhythmic sound of the crystal water of the wild river passing through the valley, only half visible due to the dense fog, almost transported us into a world of dreams. A sharp cry of the river lapwing brought us back to our senses….and, almost at the same time we noticed the family of the Smooth-coated Otter coming out of the hide jumping in the river playfully. Our frozen hands struggled to find the cameras out of the bags.
Leaving the otter family with their morning fishing ceremony we moved on. In a few minutes, we approached an even bumpy path alongside the river. The tall trees are replaced by elephant grasses from all sides. Suddenly there was no track anymore and our vehicle climbed into a makeshift wooden bridge right in the middle of the river. The white blanket of dense fog (something I have never seen before) made it almost invisible until we actually drove on the wooden path. As we slowly kept going through the shaking crossover with dark blue water on either side and the stuporous foggy wall on the front, we heard the guide’s voice from behind ‘this is her own kingdom ’!
A landscape that is no less spectacular than Steven Spielberg’s Jurassic Parks or James Cameron’s ‘Avatar’ welcomed us on the other side of the river. The forest here indeed is even more impenetrable and wild.
Even in our wildest dreams, we did not expect to have our first encounter with the queen of Corbett in such a fashion. To a rather phlegmatic first appearance, we saw her right in the middle of the road lying on her back enjoying the serenity of a refreshing winter morning oblivious of the world outside! As we stood there motionless, in the middle of nowhere, the gorgeous golden mammal slept peacefully with pin-drop silence all around us. Shocked and startled we even forget to even reach for our camera for a few good minutes.
In the middle of ceaseless admiration of the sleeping beauty, my eyes caught the tiny Danaus genutia (a common butterfly in India also known as a striped tiger) sitting on a branch very near to her, as if on guard to the queen. Finally ‘the guard’ did just the opposite and its movement right on the nose of the beautiful beast made her reluctantly abandon her adorable catnapping.
There are moments when the reality around you reminds you of your favorite song, favourite painting or a poem heard a thousand times…watching the stunning tigress patrolling her territory always reminds me of Blake’s famous lines:
“ In what distant deeps or skies.
Burnt the fire of thine eyes?
On what wings dare he aspire?
What the hand, dare seize the fire?”
Ever since she was first spotted the tigress of Paar has been the star attraction for every wildlife lover. Due to her preference for territory in the area of the other side of the river (paar) she used to be referred to by that name by the guides and forest staff. While most of the Corbett tigers avoid human/ gypsy proximity, her careless and bold attitude and most importantly, curiosity and sometimes aggression with the gypsies around made Paro the darling of photographers from all across the world. Despite being reasonably small in size , compared to the large size of Terai Tigers, she has been an avid hunter with unmatched surviving skills.
Coming back to the memorable day of our first meeting with the queen, right after the long nap, visibly disturbed by the tiger butterfly who was dancing on her nose, she walked straight towards the river. After a short walk by the bank, the beautiful tigress jumped on the river and to our delight, swam across the blue water before finally resting on a green bush and enjoying the warmth of the morning winter sun. By that time, we all knew why she is so special and loved by all.
We have met the gorgeous tigress many times in various trips to Corbett national parks. These days, the forest officials as well as photographers are overwhelmed with joy witnessing the spectacular views of the Tigress of the Paar playing with her cubs by the bank of river Ramganga. A wilderness as dangerous as Jim Corbett National Park loaded with rich biodiversity and roaring predators roaming freely – it is always the law of the jungle – the survival of the fittest. Considering all the risks and odds, whether man-made or natural, the story of the survival of this magnificent tigress for so many years would always be remembered as one of those legends of the jungle.
by ANIRBAN DASGUPTA
( All the photographs are taken by the writer)
Author: Anirban
Related News
