Last year, camera traps set up by the Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS) showed the Bengal tiger at an altitude of 3,640 m! The location was Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary in eastern Sikkim. After reading this exciting news that flooded the media channels and learning about the many other rare and elusive species that call this sanctuary their home, the wildlife enthusiast in me could wait no longer. So, with the help of wildlife expert Sushil Chikane and his team from Journeys Explore, my husband Arijit and I embarked on an expedition to explore this offbeat destination in the heart of the gorgeous Eastern Himalayas in early April 2024.
A journey of around five hours by car from the Bagdogra Airport in northern West Bengal took us across the interstate border to the serene mountain village of Phadamchen in Pangolakha, Sikkim. The journey was incredibly scenic, with the meandering mountain river, the Teesta, being a charming companion most of the way. Permits were required at various checkpoints along the route. So, remember to carry your voter ID/driving license/passport. From Phadamchen, a short drive took us to the Pangolakha Wilderness Homestay, a simple yet warm and welcoming accommodation that would serve as our expedition base for the next three days.
The homestay is located in one of the lowest elevations of the Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary. The protected area, established in 2002, although relatively small, around 124 square kilometres, scales great heights from around 1,760 m (5,770 ft) to 4,390 m (14,400 ft)! The magic of the sanctuary lies in its altitudinal variations, making it home to a great variety of ecosystems.
It was around 4 pm when we reached the Pangolakha Wilderness Homestay. Sushil and his team warmly greeted us, and after a refreshing cup of tea and a brief discussion of the itinerary, we went to our room. Our cosy room in the homestay offered a captivating view of the surrounding forest-covered mountains. I could feel the chill in the air, but it was a welcome one, given that we had just escaped the sweltering heat of our hometown of Kolkata, West Bengal. The mellifluous birdsongs filling the air were also a delightful change from the harsh urban noise back in our city.
With the sun settling down for the day, we had not much to do outdoors. So, we went down to the first-floor balcony, which served as the common area. It was time for an engaging discussion over tea and pakodas with fellow wildlife enthusiasts – Sushil, his team-mate Shivam, and two visiting wildlife photographers.
Sushil, the Founder and Director of Journeys Explore and a renowned biodiversity expert and wildlife photographer, had travelled all the way from Pune on a mission to encourage ecotourism in Pangolakha. The aim was to provide the sanctuary’s visitors with a well-guided and more intimate experience of the sanctuary and its residents. His team also works closely with the local communities residing in the sanctuary. The team trains the locals to use the various tools and techniques to spot and document wildlife and introduce visitors to them, thus helping them earn their livelihood while conserving the wildlife around them and also educating others about it. The discussion helped me learn the true meaning of “ecotourism,” a term that is otherwise often loosely used to describe any tourism to wildlife destinations that might not do justice to the meaning of the term.
The next day, we woke up quite early as we did not want to miss out on the birding from the homestay itself before we ventured outdoors. The dense vegetation cover below the homestay attracts many species of birds, including a pair of beautiful kalij pheasants.
We spent the rest of the day birding on numerous trails through enchanting montane scenery. Many mountain streams and waterfalls crisscrossed our path. While crossing them at this time of the year was hardly a task, I could clearly visualise how these streams would challenge even the most prepared ones when in full flow in the monsoons. Narrow hanging foot bridges across some of these streams created fantastic photo opportunities. We also visited an area with a cardamom plantation and learned how the crop is prepared for the market. A stroll through the hamlet of Phadamchen, with its tiny wooden homes and stores selling delicious local candies and the ever-smiling faces of the local people, will always remain etched in my memories.
The day after was even busier, but the highlight was undoubtedly the sighting of a glorious Himalayan monal near the town of Zuluk in the upper reaches of the sanctuary. This bird that had captivated me since my childhood days through tales told by travellers was right there before my eyes on a ledge at the edge of the cliff beside the road. Credit for the sighting goes to the keen eyes of Tempa, who drove us there and spotted the bird from far off while driving.
Rewinding a bit, our day had actually started with another memorable event – the tour of a local school in Phadamchen. Many of the children enrolled at this school live in a hostel that the owner of the Pangolakha Wilderness Homestay, a monk lovingly called Lama Ji, supports. The spirited environment of the school and its gifted students really touched our hearts. Sushil is also helping these children improve their knowledge of local biodiversity by taking them on wildlife-watching treks and trails and training them to use cameras and other equipment to document the wildlife with whom they share space.
Justice will not be done if I do not mention the jaw-dropping scenic journey to Zuluk at 2,865 m and beyond in the higher altitudes of the sanctuary. The narrow mountain road snaked its way up the steep slopes, offering mesmerising views of the surrounding landscape peeking out here and there from cloud cover that had settled over it.
We also witnessed in awe the vegetation changing from subtropical broadleaf to coniferous forests and alpine shrublands and meadows with varying elevations. The dense bamboo thickets and vibrant blooming rhododendrons flanking the road also made for great photo opportunities.
Besides rich birdlife, Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary is also rich in mammalian fauna, including several endemics. The red panda, Himalayan brown goral, Himalayan musk deer, Sikkim pika, Himalayan striped Bhutanese giant squirrel, Siberian weasel, hoary-belied squirrel, and more. In 2018-19, a camera trap also captured a snow leopard and a Bengal tiger in the sanctuary!
Our three days in the Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary went by in a flash. Seeing the good work done by Sushil and his team to promote ecotourism in the region by working with the local conservation stakeholders was heartening. Their job is also made less difficult by the people of Pangolakha as love for nature is still deeply entrenched in their hearts.
Like the rest of the world, the mountains and their people are also fast changing, but in Pangoakha Wildlife Sanctuary, the forest still retains its serenity and the people, their simplicity. As of now, the sanctuary and its wildlife are in good hands. We only hope it continues to be so and I would request all visitors to this pristine place to maintain the sanctity of this ethereal wilderness.
By Dr. Oishimaya Sen Nag
Image credits: Sushil Chikane
Author: Jaun Shahi
Journalist, Sub-Editor, Travellers’ World Jaun is a soft-spoken and gentle soul who thrives as a Journalist with his exceptional observation skills and an eye for intricate details. He is a true multitasker who efficiently handles various tasks and always brings a professional approach to everything he does. His genuine team spirit makes him an integral part of the TW family, as he consistently collaborates and supports his colleagues.
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