By Anirban Dasgupta

 

“She walks in beauty, like the night

Of cloudless climes and starry skies;

And all that’s best of dark and bright

Meet in her aspect and her eyes”

                                                                        -Lord Byron

The jeep ambled along the cracked terrain, its tires stirring up little puffs of dust with every turn of the wheel. The landscape around us was an enormous canvas of muted browns and ochres, a vast expanse where the horizon seemed to stretch into infinity. It was in this setting, so strikingly alien yet untouched, that Amju Bhai, our guide, turned toward us with a mischievous glint in his eye.

“One needs to have the eyes of an explorer and the heart of an adventurer to appreciate the uniqueness of this part of the world,” he declared, pointing towards the sun, a slowly dipping golden orb, as it commenced its descent into the horizon of The Little Rann of Kutch. His words hovered in the air, perfectly timed with nature’s grand performance.

I felt a strange thrill shiver up my spine. I had witnessed countless sunsets during my journeys—fiery descents over the peaks of the Himalayas, serene declines across the oceans’ vastness, and quiet retreats into the heart of dense forests. Yet never had I encountered a sunset like this. It was as if all the rules of Earth’s decorum had been suspended in this solitary sea of salt and cracked earth. If there was a place to dream, surely it was here.

No soil, no stones, nor sands marked this terrain. Just sprawling salt pans and an intensely cracked ground under our feet, as if some cosmic artist had decided to “photoshop” this corner of the world, transporting it onto an alien planet. The salty crust shimmered in the last light of day, a landscape surreal and hypnotic.

As I watched the horizon, the setting sun appeared at once nourishing and distant, reminiscent of a precious treasure slowly being locked away for the night. It cast a myriad of colours—crimson, gold, and lavender—across the vast expanse, painting vivid stories across the skies.

“What do you think the sun dreams of, when it finally closes its eyes here?” I mused aloud, breaking the gentle silence.

 

 

 A Welcome Oasis in the Desert

 

As we drove the approximately 100 kilometers from Ahmedabad International Airport to the Fern Sattva Resort at the Little Rann of Kutch, the landscape transformed dramatically. The bustling cityscape gradually gave way to the mesmerizing expanse of the “moon-land” desert. Against this stark, majestic backdrop, the resort stood like a mirage—a beautifully designed sandcastle in the Arabian-like desert.

The architectural genius behind the Fern Sattva Resort is immediately evident. The exteriors and interiors are crafted to harmonize seamlessly with the natural palette of the surrounding desert. Every corner of the resort echoes the hues and textures of the Little Rann, creating an immersive experience that makes the property feel like an intrinsic part of its environment.

On arrival, the March heat welcomed us into the challenging, yet beautifully raw, world of the Little Rann. Though travel-worn from our journey, any fatigue was swiftly swept away upon our entrance. We were greeted with a warm traditional welcome in the lobby, and the front office staff were as refreshing as a cool breeze, tending to our needs with genuine smiles and hospitality.

Once inside the tranquil oasis, we were led towards our room, catching glimpses of the serene water bodies interspersed throughout the premises. These not only attracted an array of birdlife but also mirrored the natural beauty of the surrounding landscape. I made a mental note to explore the stunning swimming pool later— its crystal-clear blue waters glittered in the sun, a siren call to dive in and cool off.

Despite the resort being relatively new, the thoughtful effort put into planting native trees and vibrant flower plants around the campus was clear. The architecture itself, a cluster of duplex-style rooms, offered modern comfort with balconies providing breathtaking views. It was the perfect sanctuary for relaxation.

Dune meal

 

Our first meal at the resort was an experience to savour. At DUNE, the resort’s dining venue, we crossed paths with Head Chef Shyam. He was a maestro, orchestrating a culinary symphony with his young team. The food was not only a feast for the palate but also an embodiment of the resort’s ethos of excellence. The kitchen staff’s hospitality mirrored the desert—warm and boundless.

 

 

Activities

 

Activities at the resort were designed for a refreshing retreat: a leisurely swim, a luxurious hi-tea by the pool, pampering spa sessions, and nostalgic indoor games like carom. Each was an invitation to unwind and experience relaxation in its purest form, against a backdrop of natural splendour.

Come late afternoon, at 4:30 pm, we reconvened in the lobby. This time, the affable Amju Bhai awaited us, ready to guide us through an unforgettable journey to the famed salt factories of the Little Rann of Kutch. As we braved the fierceness of the sun, we found ourselves amidst mountains of salt—a natural wonder born from the sweat and perseverance of the local communities. The sight was mesmerizing, a testament to human resilience and nature’s bounty. It struck me how this pure white resource is shipped across India and even reaches neighbouring countries like Nepal.

With the sun setting over the salt plains, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink, we returned to the resort. The experience had left us humbled and in awe of the Little Rann’s stark beauty and bountiful spirit, eager for what the next day at this paradise would bring.

 

The Desert Safari

 

After a surprisingly pleasant night in the Little Rann, with a cold wind sweeping across the desert city, I awoke to a serene morning. Wrapped in the tranquillity of dawn, I savoured the sunrise with a steaming cup of tea on my balcony. The landscape before me slowly emerged in the soft light, a picturesque start to another memorable day at the Fern Sattva Resort.

The first half of the day unfolded at a leisurely pace. I indulged in another refreshing swim, this time with a delightful mocktail served poolside. It was a morning made for relaxation and reflection. Meeting the Resident Manager, Mr. Rakesh Padhy, added a layer of intrigue to the stay. He shared his vision for the property—introducing new experiences and outdoor activities, and expanding their experiential offerings. With these plans, coupled with the resort’s natural allure as a haven for migratory birds and the fascinating Asiatic Wild Ass, it’s clear that the Fern Sattva Resort is poised to become a must-visit destination for travellers seeking serenity and relaxation.

Reflecting on our unique experience at the salt factories and meeting villagers with rich histories dating back to the British East Indian Company, the afternoon promised yet another adventure. We set out in a spacious gypsy to explore the Asiatic Wild Desert Sanctuary—a critical habitat for the endangered Indian wild ass.

Entering the sanctuary felt like stepping into another world. Salt-tolerant grasses and resilient shrubs painted a picture of life adapted to the harsh conditions. Despite visiting outside of the peak birding season, the sight of flamingos, painted storks, common cranes, river lapwings, and cormorants was breathtaking—a photographer’s paradise. I could only imagine the vibrant tapestry during winter, when migratory birds descend in droves.

As we ventured deeper into the sanctuary, the scenery transformed into a stark, barren expanse. Cracked ground stretched before us, a testament to nature’s austere beauty.

Suddenly, in the distance, appeared herds of Asiatic Wild Ass, strolling nonchalantly in their singular habitat. Witnessing these creatures, unique to this part of the planet and already endangered, grazing freely was a profound privilege.

The team at the resort thoughtfully packed tea and light snacks for us. Sipping tea in this extraordinary ecosystem, as the sun dipped below the horizon, was an otherworldly experience—a moment of awe and gratitude. The sunset painted the sky in breathtaking hues, serving as a fitting farewell to the enchanting Little Rann.

The Fern Sattva Resort facilitated this once-in-a-lifetime adventure, and for that, they deserve full credit. This place, with its untouched natural wonders and unique offerings, is more than a destination—it’s a transformative experience. It’s a journey every traveller must undertake to truly grasp the essence of the Little Rann of Kutch. As I packed my bags, ready to return to the hustle of daily life, I knew I was taking a piece of this experience with me, tucked away in the deepest corners of my heart.