A Sunset stroll by the Heritage gastronomy of Kolkata

The Nostalgia of Mornings: From Sufiya to Kona Dukan

Kolkata’s mornings have a charm of their own, and for those willing to venture out in the early hours, the city offers breakfast treasures that have remained unchanged for decades. The century-old Sufiya on Zakaria Street, once frequented by the predecessors of Wajid Ali Shah, remains a hidden jewel, still serving the same Nihari and Dal Puri that captivated me years ago. Similarly, Bombay Hotel in Burra Bazaar, with its chipped walls and age-old menu, continues to satisfy the cravings of those seeking a hearty, spice-laden start to the day.

For those with a penchant for simpler fare, Kona Dukan, nestled in the heart of Dalhousie’s share market, offers the perfect crusted bread bun slathered with thick malai. I recall the first time I was introduced to this humble eatery—bunking college, riding a Yezdi, and stumbling upon a culinary gem that transformed my perception of breakfast forever. Mornings on a plate, for many of us, were best experienced here, over sips of hot chai in earthen cups and crisp, buttery toast.

The Quintessential Bengali Indulgence: Putiram and Adi Haridas Modak

No discussion of Bengal’s heritage eateries is complete without a mention of Putiram, a 150-year-old establishment serving some of the finest Kochuris with Chholar Dal. My memories of this place trace back to my childhood visits to Bowbazar, where post-swimming escapades at College Square always ended with plates of piping hot, crispy stuffed bread accompanied by unpeeled Aloor Dom—a rarity in today’s refined renditions of the dish.

Then there’s Adi Haridas Modak, where a plate of Hing Kochuri with Chholar Dal, generously laden with unpeeled diced potatoes, is enough to make one forget the long queue of grumpy winter morning patrons waiting their turn. As a child, I was always fascinated by the tray-laden waiters carrying sandesh and pantua—an irresistible sight for anyone with a sweet tooth. Bengali breakfasts are not just about the food; they are a ritual, a sensory experience that ties us to our roots.

The Legacy of Simplicity: National Economic Restaurant and Radhu Babu

While some places have earned their legendary status through rich, indulgent flavours, others have done so through sheer simplicity. The National Economic Restaurant, dating back to the 1920s, still serves buttered toast and egg poach for an unbelievably affordable price. A morning spent here, watching old-timers reading newspapers over steaming cups of tea, is like stepping into a black-and-white Uttam Kumar film—a slice of old Kolkata preserved in its most natural form.

Then there’s Radhu Babu, a name synonymous with South Kolkata’s breakfast culture since the 1930s. Founded by freedom fighter Radhu Dutta, this tea shop has remained an integral part of many office-goers’ daily routines, serving soft egg poach with buttered toast. As a child, my post-football ritual at Vivekananda Park always ended at Radhu Babu, a tradition I still indulge in when nostalgia calls. And in a city where heritage and modernity often collide, eateries like these remind us of the power of comfort food.

The Unwritten Story of Bengal’s Afternoon Snack Culture

Beyond the morning flavours, Bengal’s culinary history is equally rich in its afternoon snacks. Allen Kitchen, tucked away in North Kolkata, still fries its legendary prawn cutlets in ghee, a delicacy that dates back to the British era. On any given day, you’ll find patrons patiently waiting for a plate of this crunchy, golden delight, served with mustard sauce and finely chopped onions.

Another jewel in the city’s snack culture is Mitra Café, where the Mutton Kabiraji is the undisputed star. The dish—a fillet of minced mutton encased in an airy, lacy egg batter—remains a comfort food for generations of Bengalis. Whether it’s the college student celebrating a first salary or the elderly reminiscing about days gone by, Mitra Café’s legacy endures in every bite.

A Global Touch in a Bengali Setting: Blue Sky Café and Tiretti Bazaar

Heritage eateries aren’t confined to traditional Bengali fare. Blue Sky Café on Sudder Street, a melting pot for international travellers, has long been my go-to spot for a plate of Chicken Cheese Omelette or a warm Mushroom Burger during winter mornings. This café embodies Kolkata’s cosmopolitan spirit, blending its heritage with the flavors of the world. Even as fusion cuisine gains traction, the charm of this café remains unaltered, a testament to its timeless appeal.

But if there’s one breakfast experience that truly defines the cultural confluence of Kolkata, it is the Chinese breakfast at Tiretti Bazaar. Introduced to me by my Anglo-Indian friends during college, this morning feast of pork soup and fish baos remains an unparalleled delight, standing testament to the city’s deep-rooted connections with its Chinese immigrant community. Here, among steaming bowls of noodle soup and crisp prawn dumplings, one can witness the blending of two culinary traditions in the most organic way.

The Evening Bites: Street Food Meets Heritage

As evening sets in, Kolkata’s love for street food finds a nostalgic echo in the century-old eateries that continue to serve their classics. The telebhaja stalls of College Street, where fritters made of potato, pumpkin, and eggplant sizzle in bubbling mustard oil, are an unmissable treat. These crispy delights, best enjoyed with a side of puffed rice and a steaming cup of tea, are a staple for students and office workers alike.

Then there’s the legendary Dacres Lane, where the Chicken Stew and Butter Toast have soothed the hunger of many for generations. It is here that one can still taste a slice of old-world Kolkata, where flavours remain untouched by time and modernization.

The Enduring Soul of Bengal’s Culinary Heritage

Walking back to these heritage eateries is not just about revisiting old flavours—it’s about reconnecting with the essence of Bengal itself. These places, with their creaking doors, chipped walls, and unassuming charm, hold stories that deserve to be retold, flavours that deserve to be savoured, and legacies that deserve to be preserved.

Today, in a world that constantly rushes forward, these eateries stand as reminders of a time when food was not just sustenance but an experience—one that lingered on the tongue and in the heart. And as long as these bastions of culinary heritage continue to serve their timeless fare, we will always have a way to walk back home, to the flavours of our past, our identity, and our beloved Bengal.