Bengali Cuisines : Chefs' Choice

In a bustling neighbourhood of Kolkata, where the aroma of spices danced through the air and every street corner was a culinary adventure waiting to unfold, it was a typical morning of October. The city was tinged with a hint of excitement—the biggest festival was just around the corner, and not just any festival; it was Durgapujo when the entire state would transform into a kaleidoscope of colours, culture, and most importantly, food.

In the vibrant tapestry of Indian cuisine, each thread represents a unique culture, a distinct flavour, and a heritage steeped in tradition. India, a land of diversity, boasts an array of gastronomic delights that truly reflect its cultural mosaic. To pigeonhole Indian cuisine into a single definition is an impossible task; every region sings its own melody, and nowhere is this more evident than in the rich, fragrant kitchens of Bengal.

Kolkata, the City of Joy, often referred to as the food capital of India, pulses with life and taste. Walking through its crowded streets, the air is thick with the aromas of spices, sweets, and the unmistakable scent of fish sizzling in mustard oil. As dusk descends, street vendors light their makeshift stoves, serving up steaming Biryani, ‘radhaballavi’ and ‘hinger kachori’, while nearby shops display an enticing array of rosogollas, sondesh and mishti doi, sweet delicacies that beckon with their promise of happiness.

Bengali cuisine is notable not only for its depth of flavour but also for its history—a history deeply intertwined with trade, colonialism, and cultural exchange. The region’s long-standing connections with various international cuisines have birthed dishes that unapologetically fuse aromas from the Middle East, British fare, and Portuguese delicacies. In the 19th century, as the capital of British India, Bengal became a melting pot, absorbing influences from the world while simultaneously retaining its culinary identity.

Take, for instance, ‘Chingri Malai’, a celebrated dish that has won accolades far and wide, even securing a place on the esteemed World’s 50 Best Seafood Dish list by ‘Taste Atlas’. The delicate crustaceans are simmered in coconut milk, infused with mustard seeds, and kissed by the fragrance of curry leaves—each bite a testament to Bengal’s mastery of gastronomy. Here, in Kolkata, this dish takes on an air of reverence, particularly during the festive seasons. It is not merely food; it is a memory, a story passed down through generations.

“Where to eat and why it matters in the world’s best food cities,” the tagline of ‘Eater’, encapsulates the essence of culinary exploration. In their 2023 rankings, Kolkata basked in the limelight, showcasing Bengali cuisine’s glorious ascendancy on the global food stage. This recognition felt like a well-deserved gift to a culture that has long poured its heart and soul into the art of cooking.

Understanding Bengali cuisine means embracing its versatility. Contrary to popular belief, it is not solely dominated by non-vegetarian delicacies. Vegetarian offerings are equally sumptuous and diverse. The harmony of spices in these vegetarian creations reveals that Bengali cooks are equally adept at crafting vegetarian masterpieces, proving that the rich culinary landscape extends beyond the familiar chicken and fish.

It is during this magical season of Durgapujo, when the city transforms into a hub of festivity, that the true essence of Bengali cuisine emerges. Families gather to celebrate with heartfelt prayers, vibrant processions, and, most importantly, meals that echo the spirit of togetherness. The air hums with excitement, for food, in Bengali culture, is more than sustenance; it is a celebration, a love language spoken through spices, ingredients, and cherished traditions. When it comes to culinary tales, who better to tell them than the true artists of the kitchen—the chefs? Here are a few of the Chef’s favourite Bengali dishes:

“Being a Kashmiri pandit we also enjoy our meat and fish a lot. I have been to Kolkata a few times and always felt related to the food there.

I found many similarities in both the Cuisines, use of mustard oil, rice-eating community, simplicity with elegance in food etc. My favourite dishes from Bengali cuisine would be Kosha Mangsho and Hilsa Bhapa with hot steamed rice and accompanied with Mocha.”

– Chef Rahul Wali, BBQ Chef. Consultant Chef

“The one dish which I always relished in Durga Puja Pandals is Khichuri with Begun bhaja. These deep-fried crisp brinjal fritters with hot & spicy khichdi are absolutely delicious that define purity & indulgence.

This soul-soothing, well-balanced & nutritious dish is what I love to cook and serve during Durga puja.”

– Chef Sreenivasan Govindarajan, Director – culinary, Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi airport

“My favourite Bengali item would be Misti Doi. A traditional sweetened yoghurt, misti doi is a creamy, caramelized dessert served chilled, it is especially popular during Durga Puja. This is on my favourite list primarily because of its rich and creamy texture, a perfect balance of sweetness, often nostalgic connection with the guests, unique caramel flavour and cooling and refreshing.”

– Chef Karam Singh, Executive Chef, AamaGhati Resort, Rajasthan

“My favorite Bengali preparation is Daab Chingri—succulent prawns cooked in a fragrant mustard-coconut gravy, delicately steamed inside a tender green coconut. There’s a mystic charm to the dish; the way it arrives in its whole coconut shell and reveals its aromatic, mouth-watering essence is nothing short of enchanting. The balance of flavors captures the richness and depth of traditional Bengali cuisine perfectly.”

– Chef Ananya Banerjee, Artist, Chef, Cookbook Author, Ex Editor – BBC GoodFood India, Food Curator & Consultant

“Here are eight vegetarian dishes that I believe you must try to savor the true essence of Durga Puja.

Radha Ballabhi: This deep-fried bread, stuffed with spicy urad dal, is often served with aloo dum or cholar dal. I love this dish for its flavorful simplicity and the nostalgic charm it evokes during the festivities.

Khichuri (Bhoger Khichdi): A subtly spiced rice and moong dal dish, light yet comforting, often made as an offering to the goddess. It embodies warmth and devotion, making it a must-have Puja staple.

Cholar Dal: A mildly sweet Bengal gram dal, enriched with coconut, cumin, and cinnamon. The rich, satisfying flavors of this dish are perfect for any festive meal, and it always takes me back to the spirit of celebration.

Labra: A wholesome mixed vegetable curry featuring seasonal produce, typically paired with khichuri. I value Labra for its earthy, wholesome taste and its deep connection to tradition.

Beguni: Crispy fried eggplant slices dipped in a spiced gram flour batter. The crunchy texture and bold flavor of this street food snack are a highlight during the festive season.

Shukto: A creamy, mildly bitter stew of vegetables flavored with mustard and milk. The delicate balance of flavors makes it a unique and symbolic starter that I always look forward to.

Phulko Luchi with Aloo’r Dom: Deep-fried puffed bread paired with a fiery spiced potato curry. The combination of soft luchi with the rich aloo’r dom creates a dish that embodies the festive spirit in every bite.

Payesh: A creamy rice pudding made with milk, sugar, and cardamom, garnished with cashews. No celebration is complete without this luscious dessert, which Itreasure for its sweetness and festive significance. These dishes, rooted in devotion and tradition, offer a taste of Bengal’s rich cultural heritage. To enjoy Durga Puja fully, these culinary delights are an essential part of the journey.”

– Chef Anuraag Narsingani, Director of Culinary at JW Marriott Aerocity